The hectic fashion weeks are over. How did the Belgian designers do? Here’s an overview.
Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga
In 2016 the reputed website Business of Fashion proclaimed Gvasalia person of the year. Demna Gvasalia not only is the co-founder of the design collective Vetements, the Georgian is also artistic director at Balenciaga.
Gvasalia likes using logos. Remember the yellow T-shirt with the red DHL logo that got Vetements so popular. And this 2018 winter collection for Balenciaga is no different. T-shirts, baseball caps and belt bags, they all have a logo. The logo of the World Food Programme (WFP) of the United Nations. ‘It was a very special project. At this stage, if I do a T-shirt or a jersey it needs to have something more to it.’ said Gvasalia to the British daily The Guardian. So, from every sold piece ten percent of the retail price goes to the WFP.
But fashion is also a means of communication. And so the alumnus of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp incorporated a series of figures on a jersey, what appears to be the number of a Balenciaga hotline you can call. (Anyone who dialled the number, may always let me know)
The tight-fitting super short dresses whether or not with bandage, the elegant coats that reminded very much of Cristóbal, as well as the parkas that looked like you are wearing one over the other were the highlights of the show.
Darkness. Fetishism. And a bit scary. That’s how you can describe the collection with the large black leather belts, or should I say corsets, combined with opera gloves and black over the knee boots. Creative director Sébastien Meunier clearly found inspiration in the gothic scene.
Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent
In 2016, Anthony Vaccarello traded in his job as creative director at Versus (the second line of Versace) for the same position at Saint Laurent. The Belgian designer with Italian roots got famous with his namesake label (that is currently on hold) through his sexy creations with high leg cuts and deep cleavage.
No high-cuts this time, instead we got black leather shorts. And super short dresses (Haven’t we seen that before?) without or with cleavage you wish you never set eyes on, and broad shoulders just like the eighties when power dressing was a thing. With influences from the period when pirates ruled the seas (bandanas) and musketeers lived in service of the king (boots). And Vaccarello clearly has an eye for detail, with fine embroidery finishing off the pieces.
The Belgian designer who’s living in Paris since 1984, didn’t do a runway show. Instead, Leroy chose to present the collection in a short film in a movie theater near the Champs-Élysées.
For #aw18 the #veroniqueleroy collection has been presented throught a film played at Cinéma Le Balzac. Directed by @gregoiredyer, styled by @georgia.pendlebury and with @vlf_studio at the art direction. Production by @kitten_production Starring @lucaadamik Hair @philippemensah Make up @celineexbrayat
Remarkable were the granny panties above the belly button. Trendy in the fifties, and since this spring (2018) again in the closet of Véronique Leroy. Just like the cycling shorts.
Dries Van Noten
‘Art Brut’ was the theme of the Dries Van Noten catwalk show. Art Brut, also called ‘raw or primitive art’, is art made by mentally ill amongst others. The creations allowed psychiatrists to get a better understanding of their patients since the works are often the result of visions, delusions or expressions of fears. This art form emerged at the end of the 18th century and owes its breakthrough to the French artist Jean Debuffet who travelled to psychiatric hospitals in France and Switzerland in search for art works. In 1976, he opened his first exhibition room for Art Brut in Lausanne.
And the collection? Beautiful, original prints that can also be seen in the boots and the gloves. Brilliant was the black and white print, what gave the fabric like an extra dimension. Prints have always been a strength of Van Noten. Just like the combinations that elongate the silhouette, and the dressing with contrast which give the outfits that chic appearance over and over again.
Sources: The Guardian, Vogue, kunstbus.nl